Burkina Faso-nating

When you go to a country that literally means “Land of the Incorruptibles” it already has a different feeling about it! Burkina Faso was simply a great country, it felt great to be there, and even the mood of the people – collectively – was different than Togo.

First though – the journey there…

13 hours by bus from Accra to Tamale
10 hours of sleep
3 hours by trotro to Bolga
30 minute taxi ride to Paga and the border
2 great immigration officers
1 bad man and taxi ride
(And thus) 3 hours by bus to Ouagadougou (The capital city of Burkina Faso)

The journey = priceless!

So, we made it to Burkina with no problems…and right from the start the country felt different – most notably at the border. First, I have to say I despise land borders in Africa. On my overland trip five years ago I rarely had a good experience at any border, and Togo only reconfirmed my fears were valid. But the border at Burkina was calm and orderly and easy to navigate. When we told the immigration officer that we didn’t have passport photos (we didn’t know we needed them for our visa) he just said, “okay, let’s just get on with the paper work anyway”. From my experience elsewhere, this would have been a prime opportunity for bribery – but the thought never seemed to enter the man’s head. Our visas were filled out with exceptional are and attention to detail – and then we were off to Ouaga.

We got into the capital city at night so Roanna and I decided to find a restaurant nearby for dinner and then called it a day…

…Our first priority the next day was to figure out transportation to Gorum-Gorum – where we would go in a day’s time. Like many other things during our trip, we accomplished the task with ease (even found a great place to stop and have a cold drink)… and then it was time to explore Ouaga!

Ouaga is a well organized city, fairly easy to navigate, with a small town feel. I don’t recall seeing any buildings more than 2 or 3 stories tall, and all the people were extremely friendly and helpful – even with my broken French. Roanna’s skill with language saved us lots of frustration!

We decided to go to the Musee de la Musique… and after a brief walk around, reading exhibits in French I didn’t understand, we were trying to decide what to do next when we were led into the music room. Next thing we know, all the guides were with us and they played a few songs on the drums and xylophone. Then, we were invited in to what would become a two and a half hour drumming lesson and jam session! Very cool and lots of fun… All the “music” – or noise, it’s all relative I guess – we were making attracted a lot of Burkina be people in off the streets and before we knew it we had an audience, people singing, and one other traveler join us. Eventually we got hungry and had to say our good-byes, but it was a great experience.

That evening, our music-filled day continued at a restaurant near our hotel – where we ate delicious food and listened to live music on stage.

The next day it was time to hit the road again – this time northeast to Gorum-Gorum and the edge of the Sahel desert. Once again we received the best of Burkinabe hospitality with a comfortable four hour bus ride, which got us to a town called Dori, two hours from our final destination. In Dori, we were met by the owner of the “campement” we were staying at – who got us onto the “bushtaxi” we needed for our final leg of the journey. Once in Gorum-Gorum we were met at the roadside by Ibra – the owner’s son – who took us to our hotel (2 mud huts) and then to a nearby restaurant for dinner.

We returned to our hotel to find our beds – under the stars – waiting for us, and settled in for a peaceful night under the African sky. I remember waking up at one point during the night, looking up at the black and silver sky, and thinking… “oh yeah, I’m in Burkina Faso”, smiling, rolling over, and falling back asleep.

The next day, a Thursday, was market day! We went and visited what is still – apparently – one of the last remaining authentic markets in Africa. Once which is geared to the local people and their needs not the whims of travelers and tourists. So, there was lots of food stuff, clothes, and household necessities. It was also really, really hot… so we took our leave and went for lunch…

When the heat of the day finally broke we began our journey – via camel – twelve kilometers into the desert to a small village within the desert’s dunes where we had hoped to sleep under the stars again. But, a massive thunder and lightening storm put the kibosh on that plan. Instead, our group plus another four “yovos” and their guides al crammed into the village’s one room school where we slept on the cement floor and tried not to get soaked – both from rain leaking in through the windows and roof.

The next morning it was up early to catch the sunrise, have breakfast, and then back on the camels. This day though my camel was an imbecile (mon chameau est un imbecile!) – he decided he was afraid of water, and there was a lot around because of the rain storm, and he led me through almost every thorn tree possible. So, my arms and hands were completely scratched up by the end of this journey!!!

Finally though we ended up back at our camp, where we had a long siesta – after not sleeping the night before – had a late lunch, and then went to watch a beautiful sunset with storm clouds in the distance. We had a great night that evening hanging out with our news friends Ibra and his cousin Younoussa… playing cards, drinking coffee and traditional tea, getting a fashion show of clothes worn to mosque for Ramadan, etc…

But then, the next morning we regrettably had to begin our journey back to Ouaga, and after that, back “home” to Accra.