Here I am, one month in and its been quite the experience both personally and professionally.
Personally, the most challenging experience so far has been having malaria - which I had about 2 weeks ago! I started feeling sick on a Tuesday afternoon... generally, I just felt "off". I wasn't hungry, I felt week, and very tired. By evening time though, the symptoms were gone and I thought I was fine. The next day at about 10.30am I started feeling sick again and was at the doctor by 12.30 to have a test for malaria. I am happy to report I didn't faint during my needle (I had great emotional support from Wofa), but almost did when waiting in the hallway for my test results. Obviously the result was positive and it was off to the pharmacy for my meds. Overall, I spent less than $5 dollars on my medications... which only made me think more about how ridiculous it is when people die of malaria!!! It is such a common sickness here and so easily treatable, that there is no way people should be dying.
After feeling better, I went away for the weekend to Kokrobrite - a beach town to the west of Accra. Six of us set of together on Saturday - 4 Canadian and 2 Dutch - and 3 more Canadians joined us on Sunday. It felt great to get away and meet some more people. It was really interesting to learn about everyone's work in Ghana and to get some suggestions of who I should be in touch with here. I was also proud of the fact that I made it to the trotro (bus) station all by myself with no problems. Now I feel much more confident about getting around Accra independently...
Speaking of which, independence, has been a major struggle for me. I really want to be able to get around on my own, go the market myself, etc... without always needing someone to come with me. But, I am recognizing that while I have been here a month now it is simply not enough time to be completely independent and I am learning to ask for help. This isn't easy, especially when I need to ask for help for simple things I could do at home no problem. Thankfully, Wofa is being patient with me and is helping me learn...
Professionally... things are beginning to take off. I had my first meeting with my co-researchers last Wednesday and they are a great group! We will be meeting every Wednesday afternoon, as the school already closes early that day and so that children will still be home in time to complete their chores (and hopefully do a bit of school work too!). When I am not with the kids, I am busy planning the weekly sessions, and 'running' into town to run errands and pick up supplies for the group. I put running in quotation marks because running to do errands is simply not the reality here. I must give myself at least 4 or 5 hours - at least - for a round trip.
I will also be teaching English classes in 4 of the classes. I think I will teach English comprehension, as it is clear that many students can read but are not able to clearly grasp what it is they are reading. I think this is a critical piece of their education, especially while trying to develop critical thinkers who can analyze what it is they are reading and think deeply about their world.
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Thursday, June 7, 2007
14 days and nights in Ghana
Its hard to believe, but I have now been in Ghana for two weeks! The time is flying by as I get settled in to my new home, routine, and work...
So first, home: I live with the Martey family just east of Madina, near a village called Oyarifa. So, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that I am actually living about 14 miles outside of Accra (the capital city). I am thrilled to be away from the hustle of the crazy big city, and to be enjoying somewhat rural life in Ghana. My host family are the ones who started Newells Academy and Link Social Club - which is where I am working. As is the African way, almost the entire family lives at home, and so I am never lonely and always well taken care of. Their son, Wofa, is only 6 weeks older than me, so I feel like I have found my twin African brother. We get along great and so I always have a friend around.
Routine: The day begins early in Africa, and I am usually up anywhere between just before 7 and 7:15 during the week (on weekends its a bit later, but by 9 am its too hot to be in bed). I have my bucket shower - literally, water in one bucket while using a smaller bucket to pour water over my head - and then get ready for the day ahead. At the moment, this consists of visiting the older students in their classes, creating opportunities to get to know them and for them to get to know me, and I've even taught a few English classes. The other day, I even had a Twi lesson (the local language) from the students in class 5 (10-12 year olds). It was lots of fun and the best part was when they thanked me for listening to them!!! Precisely what I am here to do... I usually don't spend the entire day at the school as I get prepared to start my research. I've been updating my ethics application - which is still approved - reading and preparing the first couple of times I meet with the children. The evenings can be pretty quiet at home, since every 2 days or so we don't have electricity at night. On those nights, I usually eat my dinner and then go to bed by 7:30 or 8. When there is electricity, I might watch TV for a bit, but the shows we get are pretty bad. We get a few Italian soap operas - don't ask my why Italian - translated into English, but I hate soaps at the best of times and these are really really horrible. There is also a local version of American Idol, which is lives on Saturday nights... I will be attending this weekend!
My work: The children I will be working with are mostly members of the school's associated NGO - Link Social Club. Though, I am hoping that a few others who don't attend this voluntary club will also want to be part of the research. There are some really great kids around! The club was started by Bennett - the head of the family I am living with - to educate children about the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child. The intention is for the children to take their learnings back to the rural villages and to become peer educators about children's rights. As such, advocacy is a well known word around here and the children are already engaged. I am looking forward to the upcoming journey and hope it will be a success. The teachers of the school are also really excited and I think it will be a great learning opportunity for all involved. Generally, this is a fairly disorganized and unmobalized community and I hope to see some change before I leave!
My observations: The most striking observation for me so far has been my experience as a White person here and the dual light in which I am seen. I am asked a lot of questions - especially by the teachers at the school - which are prefaced with "since you are so advanced in Canada", or "since you are the experts", or "since Whites know so much more than us...". It has been strange for me, as its been a first hand experience at how generations and generations of oppression can be internalized to the point where someone can ask a question and not realize how self depricating it is. I always try and begin every answer with something that Canada does not do well (IE: our record with First Nations and Aboriginal people, the fact that Canada got reprimanded for our poor implementation of the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, etc...) to put the country (and hopefully myself) in a more realistic light. It always shocks people, but I definitely don't want to be seen as the "expert" on how to live. There are lots of wonderful traditions and things happening here. The other side of this coin, is that I seem to represent all White people and the politics of the West. In other words, I seem to represent all that is unjust and unfair in this world. People here are especially concerned with the media and feel strongly that Black people are completely misrepresented and that "us Whites" are misinformed. I also get a lot of 'why' questions in regards to why the world is the way it is. I don't necessarily feel anger or blame coming from people's inquires, but rather a refreshing curiosity about why things are the way they are. There have been a few times where I have simply had to say... "you're right... and I can't even begin to try and explain anything away".
So, that is the first two weeks in Ghana.... 4 months to go!
So first, home: I live with the Martey family just east of Madina, near a village called Oyarifa. So, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that I am actually living about 14 miles outside of Accra (the capital city). I am thrilled to be away from the hustle of the crazy big city, and to be enjoying somewhat rural life in Ghana. My host family are the ones who started Newells Academy and Link Social Club - which is where I am working. As is the African way, almost the entire family lives at home, and so I am never lonely and always well taken care of. Their son, Wofa, is only 6 weeks older than me, so I feel like I have found my twin African brother. We get along great and so I always have a friend around.
Routine: The day begins early in Africa, and I am usually up anywhere between just before 7 and 7:15 during the week (on weekends its a bit later, but by 9 am its too hot to be in bed). I have my bucket shower - literally, water in one bucket while using a smaller bucket to pour water over my head - and then get ready for the day ahead. At the moment, this consists of visiting the older students in their classes, creating opportunities to get to know them and for them to get to know me, and I've even taught a few English classes. The other day, I even had a Twi lesson (the local language) from the students in class 5 (10-12 year olds). It was lots of fun and the best part was when they thanked me for listening to them!!! Precisely what I am here to do... I usually don't spend the entire day at the school as I get prepared to start my research. I've been updating my ethics application - which is still approved - reading and preparing the first couple of times I meet with the children. The evenings can be pretty quiet at home, since every 2 days or so we don't have electricity at night. On those nights, I usually eat my dinner and then go to bed by 7:30 or 8. When there is electricity, I might watch TV for a bit, but the shows we get are pretty bad. We get a few Italian soap operas - don't ask my why Italian - translated into English, but I hate soaps at the best of times and these are really really horrible. There is also a local version of American Idol, which is lives on Saturday nights... I will be attending this weekend!
My work: The children I will be working with are mostly members of the school's associated NGO - Link Social Club. Though, I am hoping that a few others who don't attend this voluntary club will also want to be part of the research. There are some really great kids around! The club was started by Bennett - the head of the family I am living with - to educate children about the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child. The intention is for the children to take their learnings back to the rural villages and to become peer educators about children's rights. As such, advocacy is a well known word around here and the children are already engaged. I am looking forward to the upcoming journey and hope it will be a success. The teachers of the school are also really excited and I think it will be a great learning opportunity for all involved. Generally, this is a fairly disorganized and unmobalized community and I hope to see some change before I leave!
My observations: The most striking observation for me so far has been my experience as a White person here and the dual light in which I am seen. I am asked a lot of questions - especially by the teachers at the school - which are prefaced with "since you are so advanced in Canada", or "since you are the experts", or "since Whites know so much more than us...". It has been strange for me, as its been a first hand experience at how generations and generations of oppression can be internalized to the point where someone can ask a question and not realize how self depricating it is. I always try and begin every answer with something that Canada does not do well (IE: our record with First Nations and Aboriginal people, the fact that Canada got reprimanded for our poor implementation of the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, etc...) to put the country (and hopefully myself) in a more realistic light. It always shocks people, but I definitely don't want to be seen as the "expert" on how to live. There are lots of wonderful traditions and things happening here. The other side of this coin, is that I seem to represent all White people and the politics of the West. In other words, I seem to represent all that is unjust and unfair in this world. People here are especially concerned with the media and feel strongly that Black people are completely misrepresented and that "us Whites" are misinformed. I also get a lot of 'why' questions in regards to why the world is the way it is. I don't necessarily feel anger or blame coming from people's inquires, but rather a refreshing curiosity about why things are the way they are. There have been a few times where I have simply had to say... "you're right... and I can't even begin to try and explain anything away".
So, that is the first two weeks in Ghana.... 4 months to go!
Thursday, May 24, 2007
The Pearl of Africa - Uganda!
I have spent the last 8 days in the Pearl of Africa - Uganda! It is no wonder that this beautiful country has earned such a nickname.
I arrived on the evening of May 16th, got to our hostel with no problem and slept what was a very sound sleep. After 28 hours of traveling, it was no nice to be able to stretch out and sleep comfortably. I also really love sleeping under a mosquito net! It was up early the next morning, in order to get a bus to Mbarara in south west Uganda.
As per the typical African way, I entered what appeared to be a seeminly chaotic bus station, with "conductors" asking where you were going and pulling you towards their bus. I was lucky enough to meet two seasoned Ugandan travellers who were also on their way to Mbarara, so they taught me about bargaining and what a fair price was for the bus. We finally picked a bus - strategically of course, because you must pick the fullest bus so that it leaves the soonest. In other words, there are no set departure times in Africa. You leave simply when the bus is full - and not full to Canadian standards... but full!!! Children sitting on their mother's or father's lap, the under-carriage full of everything from luggage, to mattresses, to cassava, etc... and the inside of the bus with extra luggage, vendors selling their wares... Oh craziness!
A four hour, cramped, but picturesque trip took us to the little city (about 220,000 people) of Mbarara. We stayed at the guesthouse for staff of the Healthy Child Uganda project - A health project funded by CIDA and administered by the International Centre at the University of Calgary (where I worked). We had a great host - Erin - who then traveled with me and several others the next day to Kikagati (pronounced Chickagati). This is a small, rural village very very close to the Tanzania border. We ventured there for two reasons. First, the communities involved with Healthy Child Uganda are interested in bringing BioSand Filters into their communities. BioSand Filters are a cost-efficient and very effective home-based technology for cleaning water so that it is safe to drink. An NGO in Kikagati - ACTS (African Community Technical Services) - as installed many BioSand Filters, so we went so that Healthy Child Uganda reps could learn about the filter and the processes used to bring them to people in the village.
I arrived on the evening of May 16th, got to our hostel with no problem and slept what was a very sound sleep. After 28 hours of traveling, it was no nice to be able to stretch out and sleep comfortably. I also really love sleeping under a mosquito net! It was up early the next morning, in order to get a bus to Mbarara in south west Uganda.
As per the typical African way, I entered what appeared to be a seeminly chaotic bus station, with "conductors" asking where you were going and pulling you towards their bus. I was lucky enough to meet two seasoned Ugandan travellers who were also on their way to Mbarara, so they taught me about bargaining and what a fair price was for the bus. We finally picked a bus - strategically of course, because you must pick the fullest bus so that it leaves the soonest. In other words, there are no set departure times in Africa. You leave simply when the bus is full - and not full to Canadian standards... but full!!! Children sitting on their mother's or father's lap, the under-carriage full of everything from luggage, to mattresses, to cassava, etc... and the inside of the bus with extra luggage, vendors selling their wares... Oh craziness!
A four hour, cramped, but picturesque trip took us to the little city (about 220,000 people) of Mbarara. We stayed at the guesthouse for staff of the Healthy Child Uganda project - A health project funded by CIDA and administered by the International Centre at the University of Calgary (where I worked). We had a great host - Erin - who then traveled with me and several others the next day to Kikagati (pronounced Chickagati). This is a small, rural village very very close to the Tanzania border. We ventured there for two reasons. First, the communities involved with Healthy Child Uganda are interested in bringing BioSand Filters into their communities. BioSand Filters are a cost-efficient and very effective home-based technology for cleaning water so that it is safe to drink. An NGO in Kikagati - ACTS (African Community Technical Services) - as installed many BioSand Filters, so we went so that Healthy Child Uganda reps could learn about the filter and the processes used to bring them to people in the village.
We also visited Kikagati so that I could vist the water catchment project that Leor worked on 2 years ago! It was a very special experience for me to be able to see what his hard work had produced and to meet so many people with such fond memories of him. It was a great day!
Back in Mbarara, we had dinner with Teddy and her family. I met Teddy when she came to Canada for the International Partnerships Symposium in October 2006. It was fabulous to meet her in her own home, to meet her husband and her two, fully of energy, daughters.
Back in Kampala, I have just spent the last 5 days at the 7th Annual Pan African Social Work Conference. The event opened on Sunday, May 20th with a fabulous display of Bugandan dancing (one of the many cultures found in Uganda), food, drinks, and great company from all over Africa, Europe, North America, and Australia. Monday was the beginning of the program, with keynote speakers and many many paper presentations. Tuesday was by far the best part of the conference, as we had representatives from the International Criminal Court (ICC) and the NGO Coalition for the Criminal Court. This coalition lobbies its respective governments to support the ICC and to fulfill their promises made to the court. It was an intense day, learning about the conflicts in Africa that the ICC is involved with and the leaders of war crimes which they are investigating. They have an arrest warrant out for Joseph Kony - who is "alledgely" responsible for war crimes in Northern Uganda, and are also investigating war crimes in Darfur.
We watched an extremely powerful and comprehensive video about the ICC called "In Search of International Justice". It is a Canadian film, and more information can be found at www.judyfilms.com. Perhaps the Marda Loop International Justice Film Festival will show it in November!
Wednesday was similar to Monday, with lots of paper presentations, and today, Thursday, was just wrapping up the conference and saying goodbye to new colleagues. Pictures are coming soon...
Tomorrow, my adventure in Accra, Ghana begins! Stay tuned....
Sunday, May 13, 2007
Ghana Make You Move! Farewell Fundraiser
On Thursday, May 10 Leor and I hosted Ghana Make You Move! It was a farewell/fundraiser for my upcoming thesis research in - you guessed it - Ghana, West Africa! I will be working with children who have been orphaned by HIV/AIDS, and working with them to create changes both in their communities and at the policy level which will enable them to better respond to the life changes they experience because of the presence of HIV/AIDS in their lives. The party was a huge success, with well over 175 people in attendance and several local groups, companies, and individuals donating items for the silent auction and raffle prizes. We also had a fantastic DJ which helped set a great vibe! I was completely overwhelmed with people's generosity, support, kindness and enthusiasm for the work I am about to begin. I am incredibly lucky to have such a great group of people around me and with their support I now have the strength and confidence to embark on this journey with no reservations. Many thanks to everyone who contributed to this inspiring event!
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